Bias binding hints and tips

I had the pleasure of demonstrating how to make a sleeveless top on Sewing Quarter last weekend. The fabric was a very pretty floral print, pure cotton lawn. The video of me attaching the binding is here..Bias binding attachment

I’ve taken some photographs today to show, more clearly, how I sew the join when attaching bias binding to armholes. The same technique applies to the neckline. The top I made on Sewing Quarter was a round neck top. The top I’ve cut in my sewing room is a wrap over, V neck, and I’m planning on finishing the front edges after this blog post has been finished. I’m keen to get some useful information up and available to those of you who wanted a more detailed explanation.

Binding sewn RS together all around armhole
With the bias binding placed right sides together on the armhole edge, I’ve sewn all the way round making sure the starting point is towards the back, about 3cm away from the side seam. This reduces the bulkiness of several seam allowances on top of each other. I’ve made sure I stopped sewing right up to where I began, not stopping short or overlapping.


Folded over and stitchedat 45 degrees
Folding the binding right sides together at an angle enables you to sew a short seam at 45 degrees to the length of binding. This creates a slanted seam which lies nice and flat.
Seam trimmed
The seam allowance of the slanted seam is then trimmed down and the corners cut off, to neaten it up and reduce bulk for the next stage.
Sew over angled join
I then pressed the seam open and sewed over the top of it, you only need to sew a couple of centimetres or an inch in length just to make sure the binding is attached to the garment at the point you started joining the binding.
Armhole bias binding
The final stage. The binding is pressed to the inside and top stitched close to the edge to keep it in place.

Investing in a binding maker is well worth it, if you’re planning on making several items with bound edges. Here, I’ve shown the technique where the binding is folded to the inside and it’s about 12mm wide. If you want your binding to show on the edge, then making the binding at least 25mm (an inch) wide is ideal. I’ll post some photos of contrast binding when I get a minute. It can really add a very eye catching, professional finish to clothing and accessories.

I hope this blog post is helpful. Let me know, and do share your pictures of items you make on social media or send me a picture, if you prefer.

Happy sewing!

Jennifer x